Glycolic Acid vs Salicylic Acid: Which Is Right for Your Skin?

Glycolic acid vs salicylic acid: the short answer

Glycolic acid and salicylic acid are both chemical exfoliants, but they aren't interchangeable.

Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It's primarily used to exfoliate the skin's surface and can be particularly useful when you're looking to improve dullness, uneven texture and the appearance of pigmentation.

Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA). Because of its lipophilic — or oil-soluble — properties, it can work within oily follicles as well as helping exfoliate the skin's surface. This makes it particularly useful for oily, congested and blemish-prone skin.

Neither is automatically “better”. The right choice depends on what you're trying to improve and how well your skin tolerates exfoliating acids.

What is glycolic acid?

Glycolic acid is an AHA commonly used in skincare and professional chemical peels.

AHAs loosen the bonds between dead cells within the outer layers of the skin, encouraging exfoliation. Glycolic acid has a relatively small molecular size, which contributes to its ability to penetrate the skin. Research on AHAs has shown benefits including improvements in photoaged skin, pigmentation and texture, although results and irritation potential depend on factors such as concentration, formulation and pH.

You might consider glycolic acid if your main concerns include:

• Dull or lacklustre skin
• Uneven skin texture
• Areas of pigmentation
• Visible signs of photoageing
• A build-up of surface dead skin cells

But stronger isn't necessarily better. Increasing the concentration or using glycolic acid too frequently can increase irritation without necessarily giving you a better skincare routine.

What is salicylic acid?

Salicylic acid is a BHA and has a particular affinity for oily environments.

This is one reason it's so widely used for congestion, blackheads and blemish-prone skin. It can help loosen and remove the mixture of oil and dead skin cells that contributes to blocked pores.

Salicylic acid also has anti-inflammatory properties, which can be useful when dealing with inflamed blemishes.

You might consider salicylic acid if you're particularly concerned about:

• Blackheads
• Congested pores
• Oily skin
• Blemishes
• Uneven texture associated with congestion

That doesn't mean salicylic acid is suitable for every blemish or every skin type, though. It can still cause dryness or irritation when overused.

Glycolic acid vs salicylic acid: what's the difference?

Which is better for pigmentation?

If pigmentation and uneven tone are your main concerns, glycolic acid may be the more relevant of the two.

By encouraging exfoliation of pigmented cells at the skin's surface, AHAs can help improve the appearance of some forms of hyperpigmentation over time.

However, pigmentation isn't one single condition.

Post-inflammatory pigmentation, melasma, sun-related pigmentation and other changes in skin colour can have different causes and may require different approaches.

And there's an important point that's sometimes overlooked:

Aggressively exfoliating pigmentation can make matters worse if it causes inflammation.

This is particularly relevant for skin that's prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Which is better for blackheads and clogged pores?

This is where salicylic acid tends to have the advantage.

Its oil-soluble nature makes it particularly useful where sebum and dead skin cells are contributing to congestion within the follicle.

For someone whose main concerns are blackheads around the nose, clogged pores or an oily T-zone, salicylic acid may therefore make more sense than choosing glycolic acid simply because it's a well-known exfoliant.

Which is better for ageing skin?

It depends on what you mean by ageing skin.

If your concerns include rough texture, dullness, uneven pigmentation or visible photoageing, glycolic acid can be a useful ingredient.

But ageing skin can also be sensitive, dehydrated or have a compromised barrier. In that situation, continually adding stronger exfoliating products isn't necessarily the answer.

Exfoliation should form part of a balanced routine alongside hydration, moisturisation and daily sun protection.

Can sensitive skin use glycolic or salicylic acid?

Potentially, but with more caution.

Neither ingredient should automatically be described as “suitable for sensitive skin” simply because it's used at a low percentage.

Concentration matters, but so do pH, formulation, frequency of use, other products in your routine and your individual skin.

If your skin is already red, sore, peeling or reacting easily, adding another exfoliating acid may not be what it needs.

Sometimes the better skincare decision is to concentrate on the skin barrier first.

Can you use glycolic acid and salicylic acid together?

They can appear together in professionally formulated products, but that doesn't mean everyone needs to layer separate glycolic and salicylic acid products at home.

Using multiple exfoliating acids can increase the risk of:

• Irritation
• Dryness
• Stinging
• Increased sensitivity
• Disruption of the skin barrier

If you're new to acids, starting with one product chosen for your main concern makes it much easier to see how your skin responds.

How often should you exfoliate?

There's no universal number that works for everyone.

How often you use an exfoliating acid depends on the product's strength and formulation, your skin and what else you're using.

A product designed for frequent home use is very different from a professional-strength peel.

If you're introducing an exfoliating acid, it's sensible to start gradually rather than immediately using it every day.

Pay attention to how your skin behaves between applications.

What about retinol and exfoliating acids?

This is another area where it's easy to accidentally create an overly aggressive routine.

Retinoids and exfoliating acids can both be useful, but layering several potent actives doesn't necessarily produce faster results.

If you use retinol or another retinoid, consider how your exfoliant fits into the whole routine, particularly if your skin is prone to irritation.

You may find that using them on different evenings works better than combining everything at once.

Do you need SPF when using acids?

Yes — daily sun protection is an important part of any skincare routine, particularly when you're trying to improve pigmentation or signs of photoageing.

AHAs can increase skin sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation, making sun protection especially important during use and for a period afterwards.

And regardless of which exfoliant you choose, there's little sense in trying to improve sun-related pigmentation while leaving your skin unprotected from further UV exposure.

So, which one should you choose?

Consider glycolic acid if...

Your main concerns are dullness, rough surface texture, uneven tone or pigmentation and your skin tolerates AHAs well.

Consider salicylic acid if...

You're primarily concerned with oiliness, blackheads, congestion or blemish-prone skin.

Consider neither — for now — if...

Your skin is currently sore, peeling, highly reactive or showing signs of a disrupted skin barrier.

In that situation, addressing the irritation first may be more useful than introducing another active.

The Leaf & Lab approach to exfoliation

At Leaf & Lab, we prefer purposeful exfoliation rather than exfoliation for the sake of it.

The right product should be chosen according to your skin and what you're trying to achieve, rather than assuming everyone needs a daily acid.

Our exfoliating products include options designed for different concerns, from surface texture and radiance to oily and congestion-prone skin.

You can explore the relevant products below.

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